31st of March - San Pedro de Atacama to Ollagüe 360km 7h
« Back to journal
« Back to journal
The last days I thought it over and over again: If we should do the Laguna Verde, Laguna Colorado tour into Bolivia. I consulted many people and the answer was always the same. It is one of the toughest rides one can do due to deep sand up there on a 4.500m high plateau. And one can also get lost up there.
Deep sand with two persons and luggage on the bike is the hell. What gave my decision another push was our tour to the Geyser Tatio on 4.400m.
After riding approx. 80km I didn’t feel my fingers anymore but I thought I could continue the 20km up to the Geyser. That’s what we did. I put my white-greenly, stiff frozen fingers on the motorblock and could not even feel the heat. Now I got worried and ran over the Geyser field to the pool in which tourists can take a bath. For approx. 20 min I had my hands in the pool, checking first with my wrist the temperature at different places in the pool, when I felt my fingers starting to hurt badly and a strong pounding occured. Slowly my fingers came alive again. I guess that was close to an unrepairable damage of the tissue.
With some maps and Google Earth I found another way through the mountains in that area, hoping for a better surface, but I found at least three river crossings. And this information gave the last push towards an easier route via Calama to Ollagüe. If on this height you get wet you have no chance to get warm again.
So, Ollagüe in the north, an easier route but also remote (we saw only three pickups on this stretch). And beautiful as well.
On the way up to the Valle de la Luna, close to San Pedro de Atacama
Valle de la Luna for a magic sundown
Back in San Perdo de Atacama
I wondered about the roof of this over 300 years old church and found out later only that it was built from the wood of cactus
"Combustible" nicely hidden in San Pedro
Some rework of the motor protection...if you don't control EVERY day all screws and parts on the bike you just loose them
This is the one with a wooden like core
Our tour to the Geyser Tatio, the highest and largest Geyser field in the world
It is just amazing what wildlife one can find on over 4.300m. In every single laguna one can find an array of birds feeding on tiny salt water shrimp, Guanacos and now here in the North Vicunas, the smaller brothers with a max weight of about 40kg
The night before in San Pedro we had some rain... Today all the six-thousanders around carry snow. Here on 4.200m it is icy cold...
Vicunas
After unfreezing my fingers..
Early in the morning we started towards to Calama, a busy town, in order to stock up on petrol, food and water.
After Calama the landscape changes dramatically...
All mountains around are close to 6.000m or higher.
What is he doing here??
Once a week there shall be passenger train. This one is for mining.
Again a Salar. The third one we crossed today.
Arrival in Ollagüe, in the middle of the desert. The border village to Bolivia.
Waiting for the owners of the hostal and especially for gasoline. He had in his backyard! Lucky we because we asked around in the whole village.
Deep sand with two persons and luggage on the bike is the hell. What gave my decision another push was our tour to the Geyser Tatio on 4.400m.
After riding approx. 80km I didn’t feel my fingers anymore but I thought I could continue the 20km up to the Geyser. That’s what we did. I put my white-greenly, stiff frozen fingers on the motorblock and could not even feel the heat. Now I got worried and ran over the Geyser field to the pool in which tourists can take a bath. For approx. 20 min I had my hands in the pool, checking first with my wrist the temperature at different places in the pool, when I felt my fingers starting to hurt badly and a strong pounding occured. Slowly my fingers came alive again. I guess that was close to an unrepairable damage of the tissue.
With some maps and Google Earth I found another way through the mountains in that area, hoping for a better surface, but I found at least three river crossings. And this information gave the last push towards an easier route via Calama to Ollagüe. If on this height you get wet you have no chance to get warm again.
So, Ollagüe in the north, an easier route but also remote (we saw only three pickups on this stretch). And beautiful as well.
On the way up to the Valle de la Luna, close to San Pedro de Atacama
Valle de la Luna for a magic sundown
Back in San Perdo de Atacama
I wondered about the roof of this over 300 years old church and found out later only that it was built from the wood of cactus
"Combustible" nicely hidden in San Pedro
Some rework of the motor protection...if you don't control EVERY day all screws and parts on the bike you just loose them
This is the one with a wooden like core
Our tour to the Geyser Tatio, the highest and largest Geyser field in the world
It is just amazing what wildlife one can find on over 4.300m. In every single laguna one can find an array of birds feeding on tiny salt water shrimp, Guanacos and now here in the North Vicunas, the smaller brothers with a max weight of about 40kg
The night before in San Pedro we had some rain... Today all the six-thousanders around carry snow. Here on 4.200m it is icy cold...
Vicunas
After unfreezing my fingers..
Early in the morning we started towards to Calama, a busy town, in order to stock up on petrol, food and water.
After Calama the landscape changes dramatically...
All mountains around are close to 6.000m or higher.
What is he doing here??
Once a week there shall be passenger train. This one is for mining.
Again a Salar. The third one we crossed today.
Arrival in Ollagüe, in the middle of the desert. The border village to Bolivia.
Waiting for the owners of the hostal and especially for gasoline. He had in his backyard! Lucky we because we asked around in the whole village.
